What size are the turn signal switch terminals on your Atom?

[havok1919]

Yes, a highly specific and obscure question.

Of course I want to know this to decide what connectors to put the turn signal controllers I'm getting ready... On my late production Atom 2/245 the dash toggle switch has 0.187" (3/16") contacts on the signal switch itself, but 0.25" (1/4") connectors in the dash wiring harness. This works "OK" because the 1/4" plugs fit on the 3/16" contacts fine, but they do 'move around'.

I'm curious if other cars actually have 3/16" connectors on their wire harnesses or if they're all 1/4". (If they're 1/4", that's what I'll put on the signal controllers since they make for a more snug fit, but if there's a mix I might just go with 3/16" since that "works" for either size plug.)

Here's a couple pics of the parts in question.

Wiring Harness Plug

Switch Terminal

If anyone could take a quick look at their cars in the next few days and let me know I'd appreciate it. I'll be starting production on the circuit boards towards the middle of next week, but I'll add the connectors last, so the more datapoints I can get the better!

Thanks!

[bolus]

I got rid of mine but that's exactly what it looked like

[AtomJohnny]

Clay,

Our existing switch is a detent type (on/off/on) whereas for operation that requires holding for a time and releasing your example shows a spring-to-centre momentary-on type.

I guess you'll provide a new switch as part of your retrofit kit. The UK kit comes with a new switch.

Will the control box have flying leads to connect to the old switch wires or terminals on the control module?

John

[havok1919]

Our existing switch is a detent type (on/off/on) whereas for operation that requires holding for a time and releasing your example shows a spring-to-centre momentary-on type.

I guess you'll provide a new switch as part of your retrofit kit. The UK kit comes with a new switch.

Will the control box have flying leads to connect to the old switch wires or terminals on the control module?

The switch I show is actually just a SPDT (on-off-on) toggle that came with my car. So on the US cars we flip the switch to one side and that signal stays on. In my case-- 'forever' because I always forget to flip it back to the center.

I do include a replacement switch with the kit-- a nice SPDT (on-off-on) momentary that's rated for IP56 (dust protected and resistant to strong jets of water).

The control box has three terminals on it that the 'original' dash wires plug in to. Then there's a new cable that runs to the dash switch and another cable/sensor assembly that is used for the wheel position signal cancel feature.

I should have my case stickers on Monday or Tuesday, so I'll post pictures of the whole thing then.

What my controller does is:

1. quick 'flick' on the switch starts a lane change signal that runs for a (user programmable) period of time and automatically turns off. Three seconds by default.
2. a slightly longer 'press' on the switch turns the corresponding signal 'on' and it stays on until:
   
   • the switch is pressed again in the same direction (manual cancel)
   • the steering wheel is turned (an adjustable threshol) and returned to the center position (turn execution cancel)
3. press and hold to the right for >8 seconds enters programming mode (both signals flash). Press and hold to the left for how long you want the "lane change" time to be.
4. press and hold to the left for >8 seconds restores factory default operation for lane-change timing.

Current consumption is about 2.3mA, so if you power it from the unswitched (battery) power it has about a 0.85Ahr/year drain on the battery (about 5% of the typical ~17Ah Atom battery). It can be powered from the 'switched' power as well.


-Clay