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Thread: HPS or HP+ for street/autox driving?

  1. #1
    Lepton
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    HPS or HP+ for street/autox driving?

    Anyone have experience running Hawk HPS vs HP+ brake pads on an Atom? Iíve run both HPS and HP+ on various street cars (2800lbs+) and had better bite with the HP+ while autoXing, but a lot more dust/noise than the HPS. Does the HP+ vs HPS really make a difference on cold brakes on a car this light? My guess is not really - especially when you can lock wheels on the street at almost all speeds, right?

    (I'll still be running my factory DTC-70s for track days)

    Jason
    2011 Ariel Atom Not Supercharged
    2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged

  2. #2
    Neutrino
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    Quote Originally Posted by Payne View Post
    Anyone have experience running Hawk HPS vs HP+ brake pads on an Atom? Iíve run both HPS and HP+ on various street cars (2800lbs+) and had better bite with the HP+ while autoXing, but a lot more dust/noise than the HPS. Does the HP+ vs HPS really make a difference on cold brakes on a car this light? My guess is not really - especially when you can lock wheels on the street at almost all speeds, right?

    (I'll still be running my factory DTC-70s for track days)

    Jason
    dtc-70's were stock from factory for you?


    I just upgraded to them on my first ever pad change circa 8500 miles
    I have wilwood track package brakes fyi

  3. #3
    Lepton
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    Quote Originally Posted by silver View Post
    dtc-70's were stock from factory for you?


    I just upgraded to them on my first ever pad change circa 8500 miles
    I have wilwood track package brakes fyi
    I have the wilwoods too. TMI offers a 'track pad' option that are dtc70s.

    I talked to Swain at TMI about it, he doesn't recommend the 70s for the street because they are really really hard on rotors until they are hot.

    So I picked up some HPSs from Amazon yesterday.
    2011 Ariel Atom Not Supercharged
    2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged

  4. #4
    Neutron
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    stupid question, but has anyone tried mixing pads? Like a aggressive street pad on one side of the rotor that works well at cold temps and then a race pad on the other side that works at high temps?

  5. #5
    Lepton
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    stupid question, but has anyone tried mixing pads? Like a aggressive street pad on one side of the rotor that works well at cold temps and then a race pad on the other side that works at high temps?
    I've mixed pads on my z06 front and rear before to get better balance, but never on the same axle.

    I'm no expert, but I don't think it will work well. On the street you'd have one side of the rotor getting chewed up by the race pad (and making a lot of noise), and then on the track you'd still destroy the street pad and experience fade.

    My understanding is that it's pretty easy to change the pads on the Wilwoods, but I haven't done it yet. Will let you know shortly.

    Cheers,
    Jason
    2011 Ariel Atom Not Supercharged
    2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged

  6. #6
    Neutron
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    Considering I still have my original pads and rotors I wasnt worried about wear. I guess though that if only half the pads are working at one time then that's not good either

  7. #7
    Lepton Positron's Avatar
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    I run a hotter pad in the rears and a softer pad in the front. Seems the rears do more work, come up to temp faster.

    They come on more evenly now that they more closely match the temps they are working.
    AtomII #73 for sale, PM for details.

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  8. #8
    Electron Lane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Payne View Post
    I've mixed pads on my z06 front and rear before to get better balance, but never on the same axle.
    My understanding is that it's pretty easy to change the pads on the Wilwoods, but I haven't done it yet. Will let you know shortly.
    Here's a vid that's less than a minute that shows how easy it is to change pads in the Wilwoods. I've spent more time and energy trying to get a CD out of its plastic packaging.
    Ariel Atom 2, Ecotec 300, owner since 2007. Drive, Detail, Improve, Repeat. Visit my website.

  9. #9
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lane View Post
    Here's a vid that's less than a minute that shows how easy it is to change pads in the Wilwoods. I've spent more time and energy trying to get a CD out of its plastic packaging.
    The Alcons are similar, except that the pad retaining pin is held in with a snap clip. Bending the cotter pin back and forth will eventually weaken it.

    Probably better to take a little more time and not drop the pads on the floor, unless you're sure you never want to use 'em again.

    Things which will take more time include pushing the pistons back in if your new pads are thicker (less worn) than your old ones, as well as properly torquing the lug nuts. Do the Wilwoods require the pistons to be rotated while being compressed?

  10. #10
    Electron Lane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    The Alcons are similar, except that the pad retaining pin is held in with a snap clip. Bending the cotter pin back and forth will eventually weaken it.
    For the Wilwood calipers, Fastenal part # 65083, 100 cotter pins for $8.

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    Probably better to take a little more time
    Surely.

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    ...and not drop the pads on the floor, unless you're sure you never want to use 'em again.
    Wreck a brake pad by dropping it 12 inches onto a floor? Not something I'm too worried about. I'd better not show you what the rest of the car often endures.

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    Do the Wilwoods require the pistons to be rotated while being compressed?
    No rotation of the piston is required when pressing it further into the caliper.
    Ariel Atom 2, Ecotec 300, owner since 2007. Drive, Detail, Improve, Repeat. Visit my website.

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