Clutch Pedal Electrical Switch

[Payne]

I'm starting a new thread to not hijack the turn signal thread.

Need: Accurate signal of when the clutch disengages for a 2-step and no lift shift for a Honda ECU.

Proposed solution: Glue magnet to clutch pedal. Mount angle aluminum horizontally on the bottom of the bracket on the top of the pedal bracket. on the vertical face of the angle bracket, bolt a piece of aluminum that will hold an electronic trigger that will ground when the clutch pedal is pressed (by the magnet glued to the clutch pedal). It will be easy to adjust by moving the vertical piece of aluminum back and forth on the angle aluminum.

Now I just need to find the correct switch/trigger...

Reason for the switch: Hondata offers both full throttle shifts and 2-step with a wired in clutch switch. An den: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROQtl...eature=related

Launch Control and Full Throttle Shift
Launch control works by limiting the engine speed to a pre-determined rpm in order to give more consistent launches. Full throttle shift limits the engine speed while shifting so that the throttle does not need to be released.

Both launch control and full throttle shift use a shared clutch input, with Launch Control being active when the vehicle is stationary and Full Throttle Shift activating when the vehicle is moving.

It is possible to retard timing and add fuel in order to spool a turbo when launching, and to keep the turbo spooled when shifting.

Note that both Launch Control and Full Throttle Shift uses stock rev limiter behaviour, and thus may not be suitable for certain engine combinations and launch rpms.

Clutch Switch

The clutch switch is used to trigger both launch control and full throttle shift. It is important to use a clutch switch which triggers close to the clutch engagement point. For this reason, the starter disable switch and cruise control switch are not suitable for use as a clutch switch. The best solution is to add a micro switch which triggers close to the clutch engagement point.

Launch Control


Fuel & Ignition retard activation RPM - determines when the fuel and ignition should be adjusted while using the launch limiter. Normally this should be below the launch rpm limiter, otherwise the fuel and ignition changes will not take affect.

Launch RPM limiter - sets the launch rpm limit.

Maximum Speed - is the vehicle speed where the launch control is switched off and full throttle shift operates. Normally this is 3-5 mph.

Fuel Enrichment - is the amount of fuel to add or remove. Note that this setting is shared with Full Throttle Shift.

Ignition Retard - is the change in ignition timing. Note that this setting is shared with Full Throttle Shift.

To spool a turbo and built boost it is recommended to retard the ignition as much as possible. Note that the actual ignition advance is limited to 10 degrees after top dead center.

Important Note
Retarding the ignition and adding fuel in order to spool a turbo will result in a rapid increase in cylinder head, manifold, turbo and exhaust temperature.

Full Throttle Shift


Fuel & Ignition retard activation RPM - determines when the fuel and ignition should be adjusted during a shift. Normally this should be below the shift rpm limiter, otherwise the fuel and ignition changes will not take affect.

Launch RPM limiter - sets the shift rpm limit. Normally this is the average rpm for the next gear after a shift - approximately 20% less than the shift point, around 6000-7000 rpm.

[bolus]

I have a switch that triggers on the clutch depression for my paddle shifter. Let me see if I can find a pic

EDIT: I dont have one at work so I'll snap a pic tonight.

The other option is Mastershift has a rotation sensor that they use to to tell the position of the clutch pedal. You may be able to integrate something like that

Look all the way at the bottom of the page

http://mastershift.com/new-street-manual.html

The MasterShift Clutch Sensor mounts to your clutch pedal to read its motion. In the MasterShift software you can set an exact point for the clutch disengagement. This ensures that a shift only starts when the clutch is to a point where it is fully disengaged. This helps to eliminate any timing issues with trying to clutch and paddle at the same time. Now you can simply pull the paddle, and press the clutch, and the shift will start right when the clutch pedal reaches a point where the clutch is disengaged.

[Payne]

I think something like this will work:

Mount the long piece to my bracket, mount the small piece to the pedal, and boom - I'll have ground whenever the pedal is depressed:

[bolus]

Mine is simpler/smaller than that and has worked great for the last several years. The sensor is like a $1 switch too. I'll get pics tonight

[Payne]

Mine is simpler/smaller than that and has worked great for the last several years. The sensor is like a $1 switch too. I'll get pics tonight

Great, thanks Bolus!

[bolus]

Here is the switch setup. Its on the top of the pedal assembly and the clutch triggers it when fully depressed. A simple metal bracket holds it in place.

[Payne]

That makes much more sense now, thanks for the pictures! I'll poke around this weekend and see if I can replicate that setup with my pedal set.

Jason

[silver]

I don't understand what the problem is that needs this solution, can you explain it?

[Payne]

I don't understand what the problem is that needs this solution, can you explain it?

No problem. Just a fun toy for the car to increase performance. I'd like to run a 9.999 1/4 mile in the car, and this is worth a few tenths.

The Hondata ECU supports two step and no lift shifting, but needs to know when the clutch pedal is pressed to support that option.

Without 2 step: To launch the car, you have to manually get your launch RPM close to your desired RPM, and you are not at open throttle when you launch. This results in inconsistent launches - bogs or wheelspins.

With a 2 step- you set the launch RPM - say 4500RPM, open the throttle, and the ECU will hold the RPM at exactly 4500RPM. Then you just release the clutch pedal and you're on your way down the track. It will result it better and more consistent launches, and faster times.

WOT shifting is the same - You can leave the throttle open, depress the clutch, engaging a temporary rev limiter at your desired shift point (say 6500RPM), and then you are still WOT when you engage the clutch again, and are back into the power sooner.

between the two, I might pick up a few tenths at the drag strip or around a road course, and it cost me about $5 for a switch, and $3 of wire.

[silver]

damn that's cool, built in launch control minus the traction control...that would be awesome to have on the ecotec