Im going to add a battery cut off switch so I can drive the car to work and not worry about anyone flipping switches.
What gauge wire should I run?
I have several 12+ leads going to the battery post now. Any suggestions on how to hook all those leads to the end of a wire without soldering them? I want to leave them separate.
http://www.google.com/search?q=groun...ient=firefox-a
distribution blocks will allow you to do what you need i believe
The Brammo electrical distribution system has a number of differences when a battery disconnect switch is installed. I don't know what they all are (if you look in the Brammo manuals here, you'll see there are different fuse box layouts for with and without disconnect switch).Originally Posted by bolus
The Brammo switch has 3 circuits - one is a high-current circuit that disconnects most of the power at the fuse box (it uses a fat red cable the same size as the main battery cable). The second one is a low-current circuit that disconnects the coil on the relay labeled "powertrain control". The third one is also low-current and isn't used on the Brammo cars. Given that, you probably want to avoid disconnecting all power.
If you're just concerned with preventing people from starting the car, I'd use a low-current switch to do what Brammo did - disconnect the coil of the powertrain control relay. With that disconnected, most of the ECU has no power - the starter will crank the car, but it will be dead - the throttle body won't actuate, no injectors will open, and so on.
Alternatively, you could replace the ignition run/stop switch on the dash (the toggle, not the starter button) with a key switch, which will do mostly the same thing as above (it kills more than the powertrain relay).
There is apparently a design flaw with the immobilizer which causes it to not immobilize if its power was disconnected during the "restart without needing the fob" timeout period - when power is restored, the timeout period will restart, giving someone a minute or so to start the car without the fob. I can't personally confirm this.
ah ok. I was just going to splice it into a cable from the + terminal to the rest of the positive leads.
Perhaps I could just splice it into the ground side instead. Since I just disconnect that one when I want to power off and the car does not seem to care if I disconnect the ground frequently.
Yes, It is just so I can drive it to work since all of the switches are live and I dont want to come out to a dead battery because some yahoo wanted to sit in the car
that won't work either b/c some of the electronics are wired to other grounds on the chassis, and they may still be able to find a ground even if they aren't connected to the battery.
all you need to do is to create a new main battery connection, that it's first item off the battery is the cut off switch, then after that it goes to the original connections that were on the battery.
terminal ---- cut off switch --- original wiring connected to the battery
Why wouldnt the ground side work? If nothing is connected to the ground side of the battery then it wouldnt matter if it was grounded to the chassis right? All my accessories are grounded right to the battery.
rubber tires ground the car, so if it's connected to the chassis then it's connected to the ground?
I dunno, I could be way off on this one...samsonite!
The battery has to complete a circuit back to the negative terminal for current to flow. It isnt a lighting bolt that just needs to hit the ground
I may not do this though. I was looking at my dash last night and I really dont want to drill a big hole in it.
it was worth a shot lol.
Caution to the wind!
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