Added the vorshlag bearings to the springs plus another change

[silver]

On both my right side shocks, the roller rocker is digging into the shock, I have place a thin nylon washer to prevent this from continuing to dig into the shock.

One thing we noticed (which I think Darth has already mentioned) Is if we tightened down the springs too much effectively lengthening the shock too far, then, the result is the roller rocker get's stuck.

Is that the expected result due to brammos poor geometry....and is that what DP's bell cranks fix?


Also, a few years ago I had my steering bushing replaced. When I received it back there was still slop in the steering...and it was very difficult to turn and it squeaked. I added some oil for lubrication while everything was put together and the squeaking stopped. Spanky had given me a new bushing to install at a later date, and that later date happens to be today. We dissasembled the steering box, and had a very tough time removing the column from the steering box. once we got it seperated, it appears that stuff had gummed up between the bushing and the outer shaft.

It appears that also, he pressed the bushing onto the inner shaft instead of pressing it into the outer tube. So, the whole time I've been fighting my steering wheel it's because it was totally gummed up and he pressed the bushing onto the wrong part. DO YOU AGREE?

Once we did get it apart, we cleaned up the bushing (outside) and the outer tube's inside, and greased it up and it slipped back together REALLY EASILY( but to take apart took a mallet and heavy pounding)

Spanky is going to take the new bushing, and lathe it down then press it into the outer housing, then he's going to bore out the inside of the bushing so that the steering shaft fits into the bushing and turns freely (currently totally siezed up)


Does this make sense? I'll post pics when I have a chance tomorrow but for now hopefully I explained it to where you can agree or disagree.

[Gage]

Looking forward to the pics.

[RandyLamp]

When it comes to fasteners, bushings, fitting, torques, etc., Spanky is definitely the MAN!

[silver]

When it comes to fasteners, bushings, fitting, torques, etc., Spanky is definitely the MAN!

and lathing and honing.

He's on his way back here with my new bushings fitted to the steering box, and the steering column free'd of its' previous bushing's prison...I'll post pics of the parts when it comes back so everyone can see how the previous install was backwards as I imagine it's hard to envision.

[silver]

FRONT SHOCK


the front shock only has 1 vorshlag bearing I located the bearing where I did so that the spring would retain it's perch at the top and not lose it at the bottom, this addition allows the top of the shock to turn about 1/4 turn each way uninhibited. On the front and the back I added nylon washers to prevent the roller rocker from digging into the shock body any further.

The rear shock



At the top of the rear shock I kept the original unsealed bearings installed and added the vorshlag bearing to the bottom perch. If I put the thicker bearing at the top, the spring has no perch so I decided to put it at the bottom where the perch is retained. Also, I could have added the perch left over from removing the helper spring BUT, on mine the thickness of the helper spring perch plus the regular perch is thicker than the bearing, making it not possible.


This is what I'm calling the steering box



this is what the bearing should be pressed into, but on mine the mechanic previously pressed the bushing on to this



Spanky cut down a bit of the bushing, and was able to pound it off the steering shaft, it took enough force he was worried it would break but it didn't.

At this point the steering shaft is too thick to fit into the new bushing which has been pressed into the steering box.



Spanky had given me a 2 piece bushing which allows the middle 1 inch or so of the steering column to remain untouched inside the steering box, which basically helps reduce friction.

I started to sand down the steering column, I started with 500 grit, wet, then after 30 minutes moved to 150 grit, then 20 more minutes, without progress, I checked the fit every 2 to 3 minutes to be sure I wasn't taking too much off. I then went to 80 grit and finally 60 grit before I could reduce enough material to make a difference.

When I started using the 60 grit I made quick progress, again checking for fit every few minutes, once I was happy with the fit, I cleaned it up all the way to 500 grit, here's what it looked like




Per Spanky's directions I added a lot of grease to the inside of the bushing, and packed it full, then added some to the steering column and slit it together and cleaned up the excess.

I reinstalled everything together, and one interesting note, the top 2 bolts for the steering box also mount the dash...I can't think this is the smartest thing b/c you're putting a lot of force on the dash plastic as you tighen down the bolts to the steering box.

it all went back together very easily. Spanky has recommended that I add a nylon bushing between the steering box and the shoulders of the steering column...because brammo didn't make the steering box the correct length there is just under 1/4 inch exposed of the column...this matters b/c you could potentially push too hard on the steering wheel and sheer off the set screws on the first U joint. Not likely but better safe than sorry. So now that it's all together I can measure the thickness I need and go buy one.

Here's a pic of the spacing that should be taken up by the nylon bushing



Now that it's all back together I can tell you the before effort to turn the wheel at a stop was 2 hands full force to turn the wheel at all, now I can turn the wheel at a stop with one hand and minimal effort. On the track I am hoping this will allow me to drive further before having my shoulders / arms getting tired from having to turn the wheel with so much effort.

YAY.