max safe coolant temp?

**cvjoint** · September 18, 2019, 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by jordanhiggins2002

so you just gotta run the K20Z3 head and it helps your motor run a lot cooler plus the added HP. I went to the track in bakersfield and it was 100 degrees outside and it seemed like everyone was having temp issues (motors, exhaust, brakes, etc)

That's right. You can also get the oil cooler from the SRA, and the optional horizontal second radiator.

**2/3rdsCobra** · September 18, 2019, 08:49 PM

I would try fabbing under trays first before you invest in a secondary radiator. The oil cooler isn't a bad idea in any case. I would ensure that the sandwich adapter has a thermostat (most open @ 180 degrees) so oil temps can come up to operating range (175 to 250 degrees) and not be overly cooled.

**jordanhiggins2002** · September 19, 2019, 07:09 PM

so what temp do you recommend for the thermostat to open and fan to come on? Sometimes its better to adjust for a track day and have the fun come on sooner to keep temps down.

**2/3rdsCobra** · September 20, 2019, 08:22 PM

I have my fan on temp @195 but when I'm on track (auto-x course), the fans NEVER come on. My fans usually come on only when driving around town. On the freeway or racing, my temps don't go above 190 degrees and usually stay around 180 degrees. E85 and shrouding FTMFW

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**jinhao** · October 21, 2019, 03:42 PM

Originally Posted by cvjoint

Dash 2 is pre-programmed to show hi temp at 215* or so. What you are seeing given the ambient is normal on a K24Z7 if ran hard. I was getting up to 220* on clean laps when I had the K24z7 and close to 230* when trying to pass some car (and blocking some of the airflow).

You can program the Dash 2 to move the warning to 230*, that's what I did. I believe a K24Z7 will run forever even if you regularly see 220*.

Extra cooling can be had via horizontal radiator (hot country radiator) which I have asked TMI for but it's on backorder. I suppose the more of us order one the more likely they'll make them. The other option is sidepods from TMI from the 3S. One sidepod is an additional radiator.

Fun fact, the K24Z7 runs hot. The 4 into 1 head is notorious from pulling heat from the exhaust, it was designed like that on purpose for emissions. I have a 4 port head on the K24Z7 bottom now and the coolant stays pinned below 200* while making 59whp more. The SRA cooling system is quite good, it's the head that sucks. Another reason why I don't care much for the Atom 4. The K20C in that one is also 4 into 1. Worse design for motorsport ever.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, can you provide more info about the 4 port exhaust manifold? Did you have that custom made? I am very interested.

**cvjoint** · October 21, 2019, 04:11 PM

Originally Posted by jinhao

Sorry for hijacking the thread, can you provide more info about the 4 port exhaust manifold? Did you have that custom made? I am very interested.

Mine is the HPD racing engine that comes out of the Civic Touring Car from 2015. I bought it used, after being in the Civic for half dozen races. It's all Honda OEM parts except for the custom forged Mahle pistons, and custom baffles in the oil pan. Unlike standard production engines it's balanced and blueprinted. The engine can be replicated by a good Honda shop, I have no doubt. The Atom also came from factory with HPD engines, it was a 10 car special a few years ago.

**texevora** · September 22, 2020, 05:21 PM

I continue to struggle with overheating on my K24Z7 SRA, even with 2 radiators (factory vertical and 2nd horizontal). It seems like somehow air is getting into the system, despite everything checking out (pressure & vacuum test of the cooling system, leakdown test of the engine, Blackstone oil analysis, doublechecking hoses/clamps, etc).

Has anyone tried to install a swirl pot to de-aerate the water coming out of the motor, and if so, did it help? Would be curious which swirl pot you used and how you mounted it.