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Thread: Brammo Ariel Atom 2 Dash Reset Fix

  1. #1
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
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    Brammo Ariel Atom 2 Dash Reset Fix

    This was never issued as official field repair instructions - instead, new builds had this change implemented at the factory, while cars in the field received a different, easy-to-install fix involving a capacitor across the power input leads of the dash.

    In general, you should not attempt this fix if your dash is working properly (or as properly as most of them do, anyway).

    This change requires disassembly of the fuse box and careful changes to the wires under the fuse box. Do not attempt this procedure unless you are sure of your ability to complete it properly. If you mess up, at the very least you'll have a car with no dashboard display, and potentially a car that won't even start.

    • Start by disconnecting the negative side of the battery.
    • On front bracket holding the fuse and relay boxes to the fiberglass box, remove the front three nuts and screws.
    • On the same bracket remove the four screws into the fuse and relay boxes, remove bracket.
    • On the rear bracket remove the four screws into the fuse and relay boxes. (You can do this with out removing the fiberglass nose piece.)
    • Let the fun begin.
    • Turn the fuse and relay boxes over. On the box closest to the immobilizer (right side of the car), you will see numbers and letters on the back side of the box.
    • There's a pink jumper wire going from AA-5 to A8, remove pink wire from AA-5.
    • To remove the terminal roll the fuse box over to the top, remove fuses from 5 and 8 [TK Note: this is what the instructions from Brammo said, but I think the correct fuse is 7]
    • Next to the fuse on top there are two holes - push a pin removal tool or a paper clip in the hole to release the terminal.
    • Remove terminal A-7.
    • Solder the pink wire removed from AA-5 to the red/black wire from A-7.
    • Install pink and red/black wire back into A-7, make sure the terminal clip is bent out so it will be secured in its slot.
    • Install 15 amp fuse back into spot # 7, you don't have to reinstall fuse back into spot # 5.
    • Reverse the process to reinstall fuse and relay boxes and battery cable.

  2. #2
    Neutron
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    Tom did this for me during the turbo install. I was still getting power drops just not effecting the dash but it would consistently turn my water injection kit off (and it does not turn on automatically). So I wired in your capacitor that was used on the dash to my power supply from for the water injection kit and that ended up working well. The car seems to need on big capacitor for the random power drops. Only problem is that my ignition stays on for about 1/2 a second after I turn off the car now.

  3. #3
    Neutrino
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    Tom did this for me during the turbo install. I was still getting power drops just not effecting the dash but it would consistently turn my water injection kit off (and it does not turn on automatically). So I wired in your capacitor that was used on the dash to my power supply from for the water injection kit and that ended up working well. The car seems to need on big capacitor for the random power drops. Only problem is that my ignition stays on for about 1/2 a second after I turn off the car now.

    I wired my fans up on their own circuit..........if I leave that switch ON then the car will NOT shut off when I turn the ignition off.

    solution..turn the fans off before the ignition switch, you should do the same to see if it solves your delayed shut off.

  4. #4
    Neutron
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    the capacitor is keeping the car on for that 1/2 second after cutting the power.

  5. #5
    Neutrino
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    the capacitor is keeping the car on for that 1/2 second after cutting the power.

    ohhhhhhhhhh nevermind

    so it's taking 1/2 second to discharge

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