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Thread: Atom in West Linn, OR on eBay

  1. #31
    Electron Karl's Avatar
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    About how quickly did the car turn?

    The suspension damage looks consistent with a front-left-tire-straight-into-tire-wall impact. The upper control arm sheared at the rod end adjustment point, and the lower control arm, being stronger, absorbed energy by buckling at the rear member. The steering pushrod buckled in a similar fashion.

    What's most telling to me is the apparent lack of scraping damage on the inside of the wheel. It suggests that the suspension components failed at either low speed, or that the wheel locked up at high speed. A high speed lock-up would have been obvious to the driver, and some signs would remain (gouges in the wheel or spokes bent from an interfering object). I see some damage to the fender stays from having scraped against a rotating wheel. If the upper A arm sheared while the car was in motion, then the wheel would camber/toe inwards a whole bunch, and I'd think it would cause the car to go to the *right* if the wheel were still rotating (left if it locked up).

    The Atom is a lift-off-oversteer-happy beast with the stock tires and alignment settings. So, did the car turn very quickly to the left with lots of smoke from the front left (wheel lockup), or did it spin gradually as it got progressively unsettled from the throttle lift? I could imagine a scenario where the rear gets unsettled, driver countersteers and lifts, and the car spins in the direction opposite the turn that the driver is exiting.

    One last thing to check: look at the sheared interface on the upper control arm for signs of fatigue cracking (http://materials.open.ac.uk/mem/imag...s_fat/fig1.png). If fatigue was a factor (which is the only reason I can think of for a spontaneous A-arm failure), there will be telltale concentric rings on the sheared face.

    Shameless self-promotion: I have suspension and steering pushrod take-offs from my Brammo Atom 2 available for sale.

    EDIT 1: If this indeed was a "slicks caused" failure, it'd be the first I've heard of in the *front*.
    Last edited by Karl; October 17, 2011 at 06:32 PM.
    300hp K20A | "It'll never go, my dears! Not if he's had anything to do with it."

  2. #32
    Neutron
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    Not as bad as I thought for hitting a wall. Is the frame damaged? If not then that's all completely fixable.

  3. #33
    Neutron
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankRizzo View Post
    Here are the pics:

    Attachment 490Attachment 491Attachment 492Attachment 493

    Sorry for the delay. You know, I was looking at these this morning, and wondered if this could be a "slicks caused failure". I know there has been discussion that you needed better suspension bits if you intended to run them, and then there were others who said no.
    Do you have your old front pushrods or one of mine that I gave you that could be donated to his repair?

  4. #34
    Proton DarthChicken's Avatar
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    Pushrod actually look ok in that picture, LOL

  5. #35
    Lepton Positron's Avatar
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    Hate to see this, makes me cringe especially since it's a red car.

    I call brand new shiny slicks. I've run that brand and they are all pretty scary first few times out especially if cold. Unless it's pretty warm out I run first and sometimes second session on R888's until it warms up enough to run slicks. I'll even IR temp the asphalt in the paddock to decide.

    much to clean and shiny to have just come off track if they were up to temp, last session mine have rocks and debris embedded for days.


    Quote Originally Posted by FrankRizzo View Post
    Here are the pics:

    Attachment 490Attachment 493

    Sorry for the delay. You know, I was looking at these this morning, and wondered if this could be a "slicks caused failure". I know there has been discussion that you needed better suspension bits if you intended to run them, and then there were others who said no.
    Up to temp slicks manifest other problems like wheel bearings and driveline/clutch issues due to high g loading and lack of slip.

  6. #36
    Lepton
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    Do you have your old front pushrods or one of mine that I gave you that could be donated to his repair?
    Yes, of course!

  7. #37
    Lepton
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    Not as bad as I thought for hitting a wall. Is the frame damaged? If not then that's all completely fixable.
    There's a smaller than baseball sized "ding" on the lower frame rail visible in the 1st picture. Just rotate the wheel back on it's current axis, and you'll see where it hit. There's a hint of white busted fiberglass near it for reference.

  8. #38
    Lepton
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    And here's the picture where you can see the skid marks. Is it my imagination, or is the driver's side one longer, wider, and darker?

    IMG_1868.jpg

  9. #39
    Electron Karl's Avatar
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    Have you checked for fatigue cracking yet?
    300hp K20A | "It'll never go, my dears! Not if he's had anything to do with it."

  10. #40
    Lepton
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    Not my car, so I'd have to drive to the owner's house (wherever THAT is), to do it.

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