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Thread: Harness mounting - revised lap belt mounting points (help)

  1. #1
    Electron Lane's Avatar
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    Harness mounting - revised lap belt mounting points (help)

    Upon delivery of my Brammo Atom 2 almost 7 years ago, the very first thing that I took a wrench to was the seating position. I moved the pedal box all the way toward the front of the car, and moved the one-piece fiberglass seat one notch (out of 4 notches total) from as far forward in the car as it would go. This not only put the wheel in a better position so my arms didn't need to be as outstretched, it freed up much-needed and much-used space behind the seat. I can actually fit several half-full backpacks back there if I pursuade them properly and that comes in very handy, especially with the 5 cross-country trips I've done with the car so far.

    I've made the decision to replace my original Schroth harnesses as the shoulders will no longer stay tight. Over the course of a 15-minute HPDE session, several tugs to re-tighten the shoulder belts are required. I purchased the same model Schroth belts, the Rallye Cross. I've also decided to address a problem with the lap belt mounting points at this time. Well, it only became a problem when I moved the seat forward... but here are the issues. With the seat still in its fixed position, this is the driver's outboard side:



    With the seat moved forward, the lap belt mount points are 6 to 8 inches behind the opening where the belt passes through the seat. When the belt is fastened, it's forced into a 45 degree angle by the position of the hole in the seat it has to pass through. Over time, you can see the abrasion that occurs to the belts in the photos below. The first photo is the driver's outboard side, the second is the inboard.




    I want to switch the belt mounting points so that they're not rubbing on any edge of the seat opening when they're fastened. In the photo below, the new harness lap belt is hanging in the ideal spot to mount it.



    At this point, I'm just wondering what the best way to fasten it would be. I do not want to drill into or through the round side tube, and would prefer NOT grinding off powdercoat to weld but I will consider it if it seems it has to be done. I'm wondering if an eye bolt (vertically I assume, or would horizontallly be ok?) through the rectangular section would do the job.

    I know we've got some engineer-types and smart cookies that hang out on the forums, so I'd be interested in knowing your thoughts.

    Reference material: Schroth install instructions (see page 34)

    image_083.gif
    image_050.gif

  2. #2
    Neutrino MadMaxAtom's Avatar
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    My suggestion is to grind the seat for more clearance,and/or cover the seat edge with some molding (rubber or plastic) to help prevent chafe. You could make an intermediate mounting bracket from the current mounting hole to the unused lower seat hole and then add a vertical mount bracket to your desired anchor position.
    Last edited by MadMaxAtom; April 21, 2014 at 04:26 AM.
    The power of an Atom is a terrible thing to waste! Atom owner/operator since 2007. The more you chase perfection,the faster it becomes. John Force for President! (I asked him once in person...he laughed)

  3. #3
    Lepton McFred's Avatar
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    Upon delivery, I too changed the seating and pedal box positions, albeit I moved the park bench 100% aft and the pedals all forward. I've not seen that level of abrasion on the 2" Schroth belts, but there is some rubbing. The belt geometry is not as extreme with the park bench further back. One thing that could also be done if the belts contact the seat is to polish the material right there. It's hard composite and will hold a nice smooth finish if your anchor point relocations are not completely successful.

    FWIW, I too experience the loosening of the shoulder belts at HPDE events. The wind buffetting seems to loosen them. I seem to have time on the straights to give them a yank to tighten them, less than ideal for sure.

    You could have made an extended metal "dog bone" that puts the belt attachment further forward and properly located under the seat. Some 1/8"-3/16" x 1" mild steel strap can be cut, drilled, radiused/polished, twisted (where necessary), painted and then firmly bolted in place. That sort of thing should be easy for the mechanically-inclined man to make for himself in a basically-equipped garage sporting a couple power tools. It might work even better if the park bench is also trimmed, as Max said, to provide a better angle to anchors.

  4. #4
    Neutrino MadMaxAtom's Avatar
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    Tightening the straps is pretty normal with the park bench/tub as it tends to settle as you drive. It's not really mounted very well..more like a stiff hammock.
    The power of an Atom is a terrible thing to waste! Atom owner/operator since 2007. The more you chase perfection,the faster it becomes. John Force for President! (I asked him once in person...he laughed)

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