Leak, Improvements, etc...

[McFred]

Sounds about right.

There's really not much difference between options 1 and 2. If you ever considered changing the cams then the difference between the K20A and the US market version wasn't that big a deal except in the actual tune contained in the ECU. A while back, a bog standard K20A2 would make ~180whp off the showroom floor in the USA. Reprogram the ECU with a proper tune and exhaust and it'd make 210 to the wheel. Honda crippled their own engine for some reason. The JDM ones with the marginally more agressive cams and a half a point more static compression would get you up to 220whp with a decent tune. My K20A originally did 222whp even with the horrible Brammo ramhorn header and 2.25" exhaust which crippled the midrange badly.

Number 3 is a popular hybrid, but in the USA the Acura TSX longlock is essentially the same though its head has slighty smaller ports than the K20s which might limit the ultimate power without porting.

Number 4 is where the accountants at Honda started screwing with the engineering IMO. Cost saving measures for cheaper, more compact, faster assemlies for better profit margins started. The compromises in the valvetrain configuration and manifold design, to me, look like they've settled for mediocre products that don the Krusty Brand Seal of Approval:


The great thing about the earlier K-series is that there was a largely interchangeable mass of production for about 10 years that ensures inexpensive replacement parts for Honda-powered Atoms, plus the aftermarket. You can easily have a reliable consumer-grade 2.0-2.6 liter NA, supercharged or turbo platform from between 200 and 600+ whp and that's not likely to change any time soon.

[David Maloney]

I really do appreciate all this input. I am still kinda green and knew I was definitely getting an AA, but not sure if I would like it and use it enough, so I wanted to start off with something less expensive that someone already took the effort of getting DMV in FL to register and plate. I bought a small hovercraft (yes a hovercraft) a few years back thinking it was the coolest thing anyone could say they had. I've used it 3 times. I wanted to make sure this was not one of those things before going in deeper and getting something newer, but from what I am gathering, if I love this thing as much as I think I will, I could probably just spend that money tweaking this one the way I want and I probably won't ever lose much if any money on it or make little mods and still get my money out when I want to move up. Sound accurate?

[David Maloney]

Looks like my front brake pads are low and due for replacement. 2006 AA2 300 ecotec. Called local generic parts stores and they have zip. Any ideas for where I can get what I need and any ideas for improved braking?

[MadMaxAtom]

Do you have Alcons or Wilwoods?If you have Alcons,I have a set of Pagid RS4-2-1's with less than 100 miles on them for $100 or a set of Pagid RS4-2s with 500 miles. The 4-2-1's have more bite than the stock (RS4-2s) . No matter what pad compound you use,unless you get them up to temp (>400 degrees) the brakes will always feel "woody"..

[David Maloney]

I just got my car 2 weeks ago and am very green. How can I see if I have Alcons or Wilwoods?

[bolus]

They have the company name on the caliper. These are the alcon, the willwoods have a funny looking "W" on them.

[bolus]

Check the video on Lane's page (at the top) where he changes the pads as fast as a F1 pit crew (he has the wilwoods)

Wilwood pad change

[MadMaxAtom]

You can change the pads on the Alcons just as fast. Not really necessary unless you are doing 5k mile enduro races..

[David Maloney]

Ok. I have the wilwoods. So where can I get the best pads?

[Lane]

Ok. I have the wilwoods. So where can I get the best pads?

Best for what activity? Street driving, track, or something that works for both?

I use the Wilwood pads that Brammo used to put on the car (PolyMatrix 7112Q 15Q-6824K) for street driving. They last forever and have minimal dust, can't say much more about them. Pedal effort required is quite high. I'd love to replace them with something that requires less pedal effort, but they just won't wear out. I have over 19,000 street miles on them and they're still at about 50%.

I use Hawk DTC-70 (HB100U.480) for on the track for HPDE upon the recommendation of Mark @ TMI as it's what they used for their Ariel Atom Experience cars. They work great, have minimal noise, require low pedal effort, and provide lots of bite without needing any warm-up time. They work on the street as well BUT they put out tons of brake dust. If any moisture contacts that dust, you will never be able to remove it from whatever it is on. It's like it bonds chemically or something. It would be easy to wreck the finish on a nice set of wheels by not cleaning themimmediately after a track event using these pads. And all it takes is leaving them overnight with some morning dew and you're screwed. But they work great on the track.