Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 85
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: interesting windscreen

  1. #51
    Neutron
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,677
    Country
    United States
    Thanks Terry. The parts appear to be correct

    the high profile toy thrower

  2. #52
    Neutron
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,677
    Country
    United States
    still doesn't work. it must be the low speed GMLAN which the HHR has that the cobalt doesnt. Terry, any idea where to get the low speed GMLAN from? It looks like it is on the body control modules and not the PCM one.
    the high profile toy thrower

  3. #53
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    793
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    still doesn't work. it must be the low speed GMLAN which the HHR has that the cobalt doesnt. Terry, any idea where to get the low speed GMLAN from? It looks like it is on the body control modules and not the PCM one.
    Silly question, but are you sure you're in the right pins (on both ends) and don't have + swapped with -?

    As I mentioned in my original post, there's "supposed" to be a 120 Ohm terminating resistor near the OBDII connector (normally in the power steering control module). See here. You've got a lot more wire between the PCM and the OBDII connector, and nothing outside the PCM is terminating that signal. This doesn't need to be a big resistor - 1/4 watt would be overkill. Under $2 at Radio Shack (part 55048024).

    You can also work it from the other end - check the OBDII plug on your HUD to see if all pins are installed, or only some (no pin means no use of that particular signal). Unfortunately, plugs are usually fully loaded with pins, even if not connected. It's the sockets that are generally missing pins.

    Next, you can get a generic OBDII extension cord, probably at the local auto parts store, or $9-ish from Amazon. Use it to connect the HUD to the HHR, make sure it works, then start disconnecting wires in the extension cord until it stops. The wires you're left with are the minimum set needed to operate the HUD.

    Or, you could just ask the HUD manufacturer...

  4. #54
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    793
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    Silly question, but are you sure you're in the right pins (on both ends) and don't have + swapped with -?
    If you're in the connector you show in post 27 in this thread, you're in the wrong connector. Your picture matches the pinout for connector C3 perfectly, and your connector has a gray housing:
    Code:
    Pin	GM	Brammo	Usage
    10 	TN	TN	Boost Gauge
    22	WH/BK	WH	5V Reference
    31	GY/BK	GY	BARO Sensor Signal
    36	OG/BK	OG	Low Reference
    44	PU	PU	VSS Low Signal
    45	YE	YE	VSS High Signal
    Try the other 56-pin connector, which should be more blue

    Obligatory Indiana Jones quote:
    [Everybody:] They're digging in the wrong place!

  5. #55
    Neutron
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,677
    Country
    United States
    edit. so I should be using the blue connector then?
    the high profile toy thrower

  6. #56
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    793
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    edit. so I should be using the blue connector then?
    Yup. On the pinout list I gave in my prior post, the connector is described as "56-Way F Micro 64 Sealed (BU)". BU is the abbreviation for BlUe. Also, the connector in the PCM itself is labeled "J1 (Blue)" molded into the metal housing.

    DON'T try to remove the pins you put in the wrong connector. Just snip 'em off (pinout list shows pins 1-9 as "not used").

    Just put new pins on your wires and place them in the other (blue) connector. You probably don't need the terminator resistor - I wouldn't worry about it unless you still don't get anywhere once you're in the other connector.

  7. #57
    Neutron
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,677
    Country
    United States
    The blue connector had the tan and tan/white wires in pins 1 and 2 already. I found them up front but they dont work either. So I'll try the resistor and if that doesnt work Im giving up on this project. Good learning experience and I did find a wire to my paddle shifters that was nearly cut in half that I repaired.

    the high profile toy thrower

  8. #58
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    793
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    The blue connector had the tan and tan/white wires in pins 1 and 2 already. I found them up front but they dont work either. So I'll try the resistor and if that doesnt work Im giving up on this project.
    It is quite possible that those two wires are cut somewhere in the middle, particularly if you have a Masterlube. If you have a multimeter, unplug the connector from the PCM and check for continuity between the ECU connector and the OBDII connector. Don't try to shove the meter probe into the connector at the ECU end of the cable - the pins are fragile. Instead, straighten a paper clip and gently insert the straight end into the appropriate connector pin, then measure from the paper clip to the OBDII connector. That may be very inconvenient if you don't have extra hands available. You could make a long "U" out of the paper clip and put it in both pins of the connector at the ECU end of the cable, then simply check for a short circuit between the two corresponding OBDII connector pins. Use the full length of the paper clip when making the "U", so you don't apply sideways stress to the connector (in other words, we want a "U", not a "V"). This won't tell you about criss-crossed wires, but otherwise should be useful.

  9. #59
    Neutron
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2,677
    Country
    United States
    I tested, they are getting power. I have a masterlube but I added it myself, it didnt come from Brammo

    Now I have to find a local electronics shop. $8 to ship a $0.09 resistor on Mouser doesnt seem worth it for some reason
    the high profile toy thrower

  10. #60
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    793
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    Now I have to find a local electronics shop. $8 to ship a $0.09 resistor on Mouser doesnt seem worth it for some reason
    It is unlikely that the lack of resistor is the problem.

    I'd try the OBDII extension cable test on the HHR first, just to see what pins your gizmo really uses.

    Is the HUD generally available or a prototype? If it's available and relatively inexpensive, I might get one and see what's going on...

Page 6 of 9 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. seems like an interesting site
    By jamesbond007 in forum Welcome New Members! You MUST post here first to activate your account!
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: July 17, 2012, 12:38 PM
  2. Interesting new business for everyone
    By DriveAnAtom in forum Welcome New Members! You MUST post here first to activate your account!
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: July 5, 2012, 08:54 AM
  3. Interesting use of car control,audio imagination and exhaust fumes..
    By MadMaxAtom in forum Humor and Off-Topic Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: March 2, 2012, 06:07 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •