So it begins: engine removal Atom2 brammo 2006 Ecotec LSJ aka "Max"..

**FourFather** · February 22, 2013, 03:42 PM

Or this--

Hope this might help--

Eddie

**MadMaxAtom** · February 22, 2013, 04:39 PM

This is the first time I have had an Ecotec exposed on the timing chain,as they are pretty much trouble free and require no regular maintenance due to the chain vs. belt drive on the cams.
When I take a particular engine design apart for the first time,I am always thinking about putting it back together,so I figured I would see how the cam chains time from the factory.All those colored links,triangles,diamonds..it still is quite confusing,and some have said the GM hop-up manual actually is incorrect..so..I figured by the time I am ready to reassemble,I would find the definitive answer.
The seconday "accessory" drive chain (water pump drive and balance shafts) does have to be properly timed if you reuse the factory balance shafts,but I am planning on running the ZZ neutral shafts.
I still haven't decided on if I am going to build the engine mild or wild. I do seem to be leaning toward....wild..

Thanks for the pictures Eddie. By the way,how is your monster Ecotec coming along? Last I heard,it was having tuning issues..?

**FourFather** · February 23, 2013, 07:48 AM

My Ecotec project is running, finally, and offers great promise, but learning to tune it with the LSJ ECU and all the upgrades I've done is proving a real challenge. I spent all last winter studying a $250.00 tuning CD from Greg Banish, along with studying three different tuning books. Tuning my top fuel cars was easy, compared to this project.

The good news is that the engine is powerful and responsive enough to hit 11,018 RPM at the end of the longest straight at Eagles Canyon Raceway, when a clutch rated at 350 HP suddenly quit holding.

But the even better news is that the engine survived with no damage, and I have run another track day since without having to do anything to the engine. We took the clutch out and DOUBLED the plate load by putting an additional diaphragm in it. Yes, TWO diaphragms. It holds just fine now.

Eddie

**bolus** · February 23, 2013, 09:18 AM

11,000 ?!?!?! what's it sound like when the pistons break the sound barrier?

**FourFather** · February 23, 2013, 10:16 AM

It sounded like an almost unbelievable amount of RPM, and startling in how quickly it jumped up there! The closest thing in my memory to relate it to, is when a driveshaft would break in one of my top fuel cars under full throttle.

As soon as I heard it (thank heaven for loud pipes) the first thing I did after chopping the throttle, was to check the mirrors for smoke and oil streaming. I was really surprised when there was none.

On a project like this, it really makes good sense to use the very best parts available. Much more economical in the long run, on a maximum effort project, especially if something unexpected like this happens.

Glad I used Carrillo rods and ARP rod bolts! And Supertech valves, springs, and titanium retainers working on some Comp cams that apparently keep control of the valves at incredible revs!

Eddie

**MadMaxAtom** · February 23, 2013, 02:02 PM

11k. rpms.. what are your limiters set at? I know the clutch slipped,but I would have thought the limiters would catch it before that level,but maybe you built it to rev to high nines/tens? Wow.. that is testimony to the ability of a properly built Ecotec to hold together..!

I'm going to have to decide if I should spend the big money and do a full out build to take that kind of abuse..or maybe settle for the 300whp mark and do mostly durability mods to run at a "moderate 300" level on track. I have a set of stock rods that have ARP bolts and were magged and shop peened..but maybe I'll spring for some better rods. Hey,it's only money...

Here is the #1 piston:

looks fine on the crown... CIMG3972.jpg

but look at the pin boss area..def overloaded. CIMG3973.jpg

GM said don't go to 300whp on stock pistons and they weren't kidding.

Cyl #4 will need a sleeve..too badly damaged.. the rest look nice..

CIMG3971.jpg

I just ordered a sleeve removal/install press...oh boy,more tools!

I'm thinking of going with a ceramic 6 puck solid hub clutch disc from ACT,I have used them with a lot of success in other cars. GM11-HDR6_2.jpg
They say they handle 435ft.lbs..which is plenty..and they aren't difficult to engage/disengage at all.(just a little grabby when cold) I can use the stock hydraulics (at least I could on the other applications I've tried then in)

**atom ant** · February 23, 2013, 04:05 PM

Sounds like you are shooting for the F1 engine.
All super bikes rev over 11K some as high as 13K (actually I don't think there is a super bike that max below 11K). Thats why the Hartly v8 revs to 11K since it is really just 2 bike engines.
I love to hear a sound bite of your engine at max rev.

**Terry Kennedy** · February 23, 2013, 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by FourFather

The good news is that the engine is powerful and responsive enough to hit 11,018 RPM at the end of the longest straight at Eagles Canyon Raceway, when a clutch rated at 350 HP suddenly quit holding.

What are you aiming for at the top end? The stock Atom dash only goes to 9000 RPM, but the same dash (without the Ariel logo) is available in a 12000 RPM version. The newer builds of the dash may support more analog sensors than the original Brammo dash as well (Brammo probably changed over at some point).

Spa Technique Inc.
8225 Indy Lane
Indianapolis, IN 46214
Tel: 317 271 7941
Fax: 317 271 7951
Email: info _@_ spatechnique.com

You'll need to contact them to get a price on just a new dash display head, as the stock package includes the wiring harness and sensors, which you don't need as you already have them.

If you do swap the dash and want to retain accurate mileage, contact me via email / PM and I'll fill you in. SPA's official answer is to do a "Ferris Bueller"

**RyanD** · February 25, 2013, 05:02 PM

Originally Posted by MadMaxAtom

The seconday "accessory" drive chain (water pump drive and balance shafts) does have to be properly timed if you reuse the factory balance shafts,but I am planning on running the ZZ neutral shafts.

I was going to buy blank shafts, but I decided that was a waste of money and just cut mine off. No point spinning weight that doesn't do anything.

**MadMaxAtom** · February 25, 2013, 08:27 PM

Cut them off? Hmm. I see they also sell a less expensive delete kit (than the ZZ shafts) that does cut the original shafts and keep only the sprocket ends so you can still run the water pump with the chain (as opposed to going to an electric drive) and the kit includes some machined aluminum bushings that are pressed into the block to close off the oil feed passage to the original shafts.They say once you put the bushings in the block,you can't go back to balance shafts..but so what? Maybe I'll do that instead of shafts. Still thinking about better rods...and maybe have the legendary Lindskog Balancing (right in Boxboro,Ma) do the lower end...oh,the endless possibilities...!..