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Thread: help asap please need info for rear hub assembly

  1. #1

    help asap please need info for rear hub assembly

    Anybody know the part for the hub assembly on the left rear? Im at the track and the hub bearing as failed. If this is for a cobalt or? 2006 aa2 300 ecotec. Thanks. 409 659 0953

  2. #2
    Neutron
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    from old post by Randy

    bearing:
    NAPA part number BRGB32 - This wheel bearing is also sold by most other parts houses, O'Riely, AutoZone, etc. under their own part number. Have them do a search in wheel bearings for "559225" It also carries a FAG part number 051-3863 and a SKF/NGK part number 51 2578.

    Seal:
    NAPA part number NOS18727 This wheel bearing is also sold by most other parts houses, O'Riely, AutoZone, etc. under their own part number. Have them do a search in oil seals for "18727"
    the high profile toy thrower

  3. #3
    IThank you for the info. Obviously i couldnt fix it at the track, so parked the car.

    Here is what happened, i was out on my 3rd or 4th hot lap when i stabbed the brakes and it didnt feel right. I slowed down and came into the pits. When i got the car to my pit box, i could see metal shavings in the inner barrel of the left rear wheel. The bracket of the ebrake was torqued over and grinding against the rotor. It appears as though the bearing of the hub assembly has failed. There was very limited options as to how to proceed at the track but im guessing taking the upright off and having the bearing pressed out and replaced is my only real option. The car has just over 3k miles. Never has had slicks just r compound track tires. Any other options/upgrades? Is this a common problem or a weak link? Just plan on changing them every 3k miles?

    Thanks

    Ben

  4. #4
    Neutron
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    It has really only a problem for people running slicks or doing a lot of track days.

    Also, standard practice should be to torque your rear axle nuts every track day to 200 ft lbs. A loose nut will do this as well. There is a washer on the inside around the axle which can get damaged as well. TMI made some stronger ones a while back that several people upgraded to.

    My guess is your axel nut got loose. Also, are the seals in place? Someone once posted a pick of one that was dried out and failed because it lost all the grease.

    Good think you caught it with minimal damage.

    There were 2 different upgraded rear uprights that were available for awhile like the set I got from Tom. I dont think either are still available now.

    the high profile toy thrower

  5. #5
    Proton Terry Kennedy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    There were 2 different upgraded rear uprights that were available for awhile like the set I got from Tom. I dont think either are still available now.

    Unless Tom sold his CNC machine or has it fully booked (neither of which seems likely), he can probably make more of these. The cost would probably be a bit higher as the setup (billet blanks, anodizing, etc.) wouldn't be spread among multiple sets. He's also had to eat the cost of some production problems - one set he sent out for anodizing was in the tank for too long and Tom refused to sell it because it was a few 1000's off from his spec. That's the set he was using for his show booth display.

    Regarding wheel bearings for the stock uprights, you'll have no control over what you get. I placed an order for 4 from NAPA and received 3 different brands. Depending on the phase of the moon, you'll get a part of greater or lesser quality, with or without integrated seal, and pre-lubricated or not. Ideally, you want a Japanese part with integrated seal and pre-grease, but the odds are not good. I know that when Tom did his uprights, he went through like a dozen suppliers until he found a bearing he felt was acceptable. I'm pretty sure that the Palatov uprights use a Porsche bearing for the same reason.

    The seal is a Chicago Rawhide (SKF) 18727. The bearing grease is Sta-Lube SL3191.

    Change both sides.

  6. #6
    Neutrino MadMaxAtom's Avatar
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    When replacing the bearing,make sure you use a north american manufactured bearing as the "offshore" units will not last long for track use.(I use TRW exclusively,and make sure they state the country of manufacture right on the bearing,not the box.) Also,the factory brammo bearing spacers are too soft,and will give (loosen) under pressure...and that opens the door for bearing failure as there is not enough preload left to keep the bearings happy. I believe Eddie Hill had a machine shop fabricate a few sets out of a very strong alloy...I bought three sets years ago...it was a shop that shared the name of an old outlaw...Earp or Hickock I think. If you use those hardened spacers with new bearings,and are religious about torquing them,the bearings will last. Palatov made uprights as well..you may want to see if he would do another run of them. They are indestructible.
    Last edited by MadMaxAtom; January 7, 2013 at 05:56 AM.
    The power of an Atom is a terrible thing to waste! Atom owner/operator since 2007. The more you chase perfection,the faster it becomes. John Force for President! (I asked him once in person...he laughed)

  7. #7
    Thank you all for the help/info. I had been of the understanding this was a problem only for those running slicks which is why I chose not to do that. This is only the 4th track day on the car and it has just 3k miles total. Nevertheless, I'll start with replacing the bearing and seal this time. I suppose then I will start searching for a more definitive solution with one of the other uprights.........I saw someone selling set a few months ago but I don't recall where.....

    Thanks again for the pointers, guys.

    ben

  8. #8
    Neutrino Norm's Avatar
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    Shinoo had a set of stock uprights he was looking to sell a few months back, FYI

  9. #9
    Neutrino MadMaxAtom's Avatar
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    Do NOT overlook the FACT that the stock brammo bearing spacers were made too soft...they barely hold up under street use,never mind track use. I ran the "DOC" Atom (pictured in my avatar)with stock uprights/bearings but with the upgraded wheel spacers, on very soft,wide race only tires for many track events and never had any issues with bearings. I did upgrade to the Palatov uprights eventually,but only because I had a spare set. The stock setup,with the upgraded bearing spacers and new (HIGH quality) bearings,axle nuts torqued before every event, should work fine for occasional track use even with track only rubber.
    Last edited by MadMaxAtom; January 7, 2013 at 07:31 AM.
    The power of an Atom is a terrible thing to waste! Atom owner/operator since 2007. The more you chase perfection,the faster it becomes. John Force for President! (I asked him once in person...he laughed)

  10. #10
    Lepton McFred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm View Post
    Shinoo had a set of stock uprights he was looking to sell a few months back, FYI
    I've got my original rears avaliable too. Can ship today/tomorrow if necessary.

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