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Thread: help asap please need info for rear hub assembly

  1. #31
    Gluon
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Kennedy View Post
    That was the source for the new washers I passed along to the buyer of my car. At the time they left here, I believe the old front washers and a set of new rear washers were in a ziplock bag. TMI changed the fronts on my car at AtomFest 2009. I had them give me the new rear ones (they sold them as a set for all 4 corners), since I already had the Unique Fabricating rear uprights on my car at that point and didn't need their new rear ones installed. The old rear washers from my car were boxed in with the old hubs/uprights (I saved every part that came off the car).
    Uh Oh! Thanks Terry, Maniac passed along all of those parts to me. Now I'm not sure if I might have accidentally used the old rear spacers. That might explain things. Were the old ones visually different than the newer hardened ones, i.e., is there a way for me to tell the difference without knowing what box/bag they came from?

  2. #32
    Neutron
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    they had a heat treatment color difference if I remember correctly. (I didnt get them, I replaced my uprights instead)

    you'll know if the washers are the weaker ones. mine had a groove carved into them from the metal weakening.
    the high profile toy thrower

  3. #33
    Gluon
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    they had a heat treatment color difference if I remember correctly. (I didnt get them, I replaced my uprights instead)

    you'll know if the washers are the weaker ones. mine had a groove carved into them from the metal weakening.
    The ones I installed had a bronze/copper color to them. They weren't silver/grey.

  4. #34
    Neutron
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    that sounds like the hardened ones. Have you pulled them out to check to see how they look? Its pretty easy to get the axel out.
    the high profile toy thrower

  5. #35
    Gluon
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    that sounds like the hardened ones. Have you pulled them out to check to see how they look? Its pretty easy to get the axel out.
    That's my next step.

  6. #36
    Neutron
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    If you havent done it before we can walk you through it. The hardest part is finding a store that has the giant allen wrench for the bolt on the top of the upright.
    the high profile toy thrower

  7. #37
    Lepton Positron's Avatar
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    Snap on online, Allen socket. Let the UPS lady drop it off.

    Don't forget that big ass torque wrench you made us all buy..
    Last edited by Positron; August 28, 2014 at 08:19 PM.
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  8. #38
    Gluon
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolus View Post
    If you havent done it before we can walk you through it. The hardest part is finding a store that has the giant allen wrench for the bolt on the top of the upright.
    Thank you, but I will probably leave this to a professional. The local mechanic I have found is very good, and has taken a particular interest in understanding the Atom. He's already used this forum several times to research different topics.

    I hope I can keep my Atom running in top shape forever. Getting point-by's on Monday from ZR1's and 911 Turbos is extremely gratifying, and I'm not even that good.

  9. #39
    Gluon
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    Had the car at Pocono yesterday and had no issues with the hubs. I applied blue Loctite on Friday and used reference marks on axles and nuts. No movement. Rechecked torque after each session and all was fine.

    Ran into a new issue though. Toward the end of the day, I found the car losing power in the long straights. Seemed to hesitate at high RPM and had difficulty building top end speed. Problem worsened on drive home. Anything but the most gentle application of throttle would cause the engine to bog down and almost stall. As soon as I come off throttle, it idles normally. Anyone have any thoughts? Fuel flow issue maybe? Has anyone heard of a Brammo Atom 2 having similar symptoms? (GM Ecotec supercharged)

  10. #40
    Neutrino MadMaxAtom's Avatar
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    It does sound like fuel flow/starvation. Swap out the inline filter and see if it goes away. The part number is Wix brand: 33980

    I have also seen excess air filter oil coat the MAF sensor and cause erratic operation as well. Just a shot of cleaner is all it takes to bring it back to normal.
    Last edited by MadMaxAtom; September 22, 2014 at 08:45 AM.
    The power of an Atom is a terrible thing to waste! Atom owner/operator since 2007. The more you chase perfection,the faster it becomes. John Force for President! (I asked him once in person...he laughed)

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